Quick answer: A solid home security checklist covers six areas: entry doors, windows, the garage, the yard and lighting, alarms and cameras, and digital security. Start with the free and low-cost fixes (locking habits, trimming shrubs, changing default passwords), then move to hardware upgrades like deadbolts and smart locks, and finally to monitored systems if you want round-the-clock coverage.
Key takeaways
- Most break-ins use easy entry points: unlocked doors, weak strike plates and ground-floor windows.
- Many of the highest-impact fixes cost under $50 or nothing at all.
- Lighting, visibility and landscaping do real work before any alarm is needed.
- Digital security (Wi-Fi, camera passwords, smart lock accounts) is now part of physical security.
- Walk the checklist twice a year and after any move, renovation or lost key.
Walk your home with this list in hand, door by door and room by room, and mark anything that fails. Each section below ranks fixes from cheapest to most expensive, so you can knock out the easy wins this weekend and plan the bigger upgrades over time. Costs are rough estimates and vary by region, brand and installer.
Want a professional opinion on what your home actually needs? You can request free security system quotes using the form on this page.
Entry Doors: Your First Line of Defense
Front, back, side and basement doors are the most common point of forced entry. A door is only as strong as its weakest part, which is usually the strike plate and the screws holding it.
Check these items:
- Door material: Solid-core wood, steel or fiberglass beats hollow-core. Hollow doors can be kicked through.
- Deadbolt: Should extend at least one inch into the frame and be a quality grade (look for ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 or 2).
- Strike plate: Replace short factory screws with 3-inch screws that reach the wall stud.
- Hinges: Exterior doors should open inward, with hinge pins that can’t be pulled from outside.
- Peephole or video doorbell: You should be able to see who’s there without opening the door.
- Sliding glass doors: Add a dowel or security bar in the track and an anti-lift device.
Fixes ranked by cost
- Free: Lock doors every time, even when home. Never hide a key under a mat or planter.
- Under $25: Heavy-duty strike plate and 3-inch screws; sliding door security bar.
- $30 to $150: New Grade 1 or 2 deadbolt, or a door reinforcement kit.
- $100 to $400: Smart lock or keypad deadbolt, plus a video doorbell.
- $500 to $2,500+: Full replacement with a solid steel or fiberglass door and reinforced frame.
Windows: The Overlooked Weak Spot
Ground-floor windows, basement windows and any window reachable from a porch roof or tree deserve extra attention. Factory latches are meant to keep drafts out, not people.
- Latches: Confirm every window locks fully and the latch isn’t loose or bent.
- Window security film: A clear adhesive layer that makes glass harder to break through quickly.
- Pin locks or sash stops: Allow you to vent a window without leaving it fully open.
- Basement window wells: Check covers and bars, while making sure at least one escape route meets fire safety needs.
- Window sensors: Contact sensors trigger an alarm if a window is opened.
Fixes ranked by cost
- Free: Lock windows at night and when leaving; trim anything that screens a window from the street.
- $5 to $30 each: Pin locks, sash locks or dowel rods for sliding windows.
- $100 to $400: Security film for the most vulnerable windows (DIY kits or professional install).
- $20 to $50 per window: Wireless contact sensors as part of an alarm system.
- $200+ per window: Laminated or impact-rated glass, which also helps in storm-prone areas.
Pro tip: Do the “dollar bill test” on doors and windows: close it on a bill, and if you can slide it out easily, the seal or latch is loose.
Most burglars look for the easiest way in, so an unlocked door or window does the work for them.
Garage and Outbuildings
An attached garage often leads straight into the house, and a detached shed or workshop may hold tools that make a break-in easier. Treat both as part of your entry points.
- Interior door to the house: Should be solid, with a deadbolt, and kept locked.
- Garage door opener: Use rolling-code technology; replace very old openers that use fixed codes.
- Emergency release: Secure or zip-tie the red release cord so it can’t be hooked from outside.
- Remotes: Never leave a remote visible in a parked car, and remove the keypad code from guests.
- Windows: Cover or frost garage windows so no one can see what’s inside.
- Sheds and tool storage: Use a quality padlock and anchor ladders and tools out of sight.
Fixes ranked by cost
- Free: Lock the garage door and interior door every night; stop leaving remotes in cars.
- $10 to $40: Frosted window film, a better padlock, and a zip tie for the release cord.
- $50 to $150: Garage door sensor or tilt sensor that alerts you if it opens.
- $300 to $700+: New smart opener with phone alerts and rolling codes.
Yard, Landscaping and Lighting
Visibility is a deterrent. Intruders prefer places where they can work unseen, so open sight lines and good lighting matter as much as any gadget.
Walk the perimeter and look for:
- Overgrown shrubs: Keep them trimmed below about three feet near windows and doors.
- Tree branches: Cut back limbs that give access to a second-story window or roof.
- Dark corners: Add motion lighting at every entry, the side yard and the driveway.
- Fences and gates: Check latches and locks; a closed gate with a lock slows anyone down.
- Visible valuables: Bikes, grills, packages and tools left in the open invite theft.
- Address numbers: Clear, well-lit numbers help emergency responders find you fast.
Fixes ranked by cost
- Free: Trim plants, bring in packages promptly, and put valuables away.
- $15 to $50 each: Solar or plug-in motion floodlights and timers for porch lights.
- $100 to $300: Hardwired motion lighting or smart bulbs on schedules.
- $300 to $1,500+: Landscape lighting design or a new fence with a lockable gate.
For placement ideas, see our guide on where to place home security cameras, which covers both yard and indoor positions.
Good lighting and clear sight lines cost far less than most gadgets and work around the clock.
Alarms, Cameras and Monitoring
Once the physical basics are covered, an alarm system adds detection and a way to respond. This is where costs vary most, so decide what level of coverage you actually need.
- Door and window sensors: Cover every ground-floor entry point.
- Motion detectors: Place them in main hallways or living areas, ideally pet-friendly where needed.
- Glass-break sensors: Useful for rooms with large windows or sliding doors.
- Cameras: Cover front door, back door, driveway and garage at minimum.
- Siren: Make sure it’s loud enough to be heard outside and by neighbors.
- Smoke, CO and water sensors: Many systems add these for a small extra cost.
- Monitoring: Decide between self-monitoring (alerts to your phone) and professional monitoring (a call center dispatches help).
Fixes ranked by cost
- Free: Display a yard sign or window decal if you have a system, and test your smoke and CO alarms monthly.
- $30 to $100 each: Standalone indoor or outdoor Wi-Fi cameras and a video doorbell.
- $150 to $600: DIY starter alarm kit with a hub, sensors and a siren.
- $300 to $1,500+: Professionally installed system, plus roughly $10 to $60 per month for monitoring (estimates).
Not sure which route fits? Compare the trade-offs in our professional vs self-monitored security guide, and learn how pricing breaks down in how much a home security system costs. You may also find typical homeowners insurance discounts for security systems worth a look.
Digital Security: Protect Your Smart Home
Cameras, smart locks and Wi-Fi hubs are only as safe as the accounts and networks behind them. A weak password can undo the best hardware.
- Router: Change the default admin password, use WPA2 or WPA3, and update firmware.
- Guest network: Put smart devices and visitors on a separate network from your computers.
- Unique passwords: Use a password manager and never reuse passwords across devices.
- Two-factor authentication: Turn it on for camera, lock and alarm apps.
- Software updates: Enable automatic updates for devices and apps.
- Old devices: Remove accounts and reset cameras before selling or discarding them.
- Social media: Avoid posting travel plans in real time or showing your house number.
Fixes ranked by cost
- Free: Change default passwords, enable two-factor authentication and update firmware.
- $0 to $60 per year: Password manager.
- $80 to $300: A newer router with built-in security and guest network features.
The Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency (cisa.gov/secure-our-world) offers free, plain-language guidance on securing home devices and accounts.
Room-by-Room and Habits Checklist
Finish with a quick interior pass, plus the daily habits that make everything above work.
- Main living area: Keep valuables out of sight from windows; consider a camera or motion sensor.
- Bedrooms: Know where your phone, flashlight and escape routes are; keep the master bedroom door sturdy.
- Home office: Lock up laptops, documents and external drives.
- Safe or lockbox: Store passports, spare keys, cash and important documents, bolted to the floor if possible.
- Keys: Rekey locks after moving in or losing a key.
- Vacation prep: Pause mail and deliveries, use lighting timers and ask a neighbor to watch the house.
- Know your neighbors: Exchange numbers and look out for each other.
For more ideas, our roundup of 25 ways to make your home a harder target pairs well with this checklist. Planning a wired or wireless setup? See wireless vs wired security systems. Many readers also move on to our guide to the best DIY home security systems once the basics are done.
Ready to turn your checklist into a plan? Request free, no-obligation security quotes from vetted providers with the form on this page.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I run through a home security checklist?
Twice a year is a good rhythm, such as spring and fall. Also review it after a move, renovation, lost key, or any nearby break-in.
What are the cheapest changes that make the biggest difference?
Consistent locking habits, longer strike plate screws, trimmed shrubs, motion lighting and changing default passwords. Together they cost little and address the most common weaknesses.
Do I need a monitored alarm system?
Not always. Self-monitored cameras and sensors work well for many homes, while professional monitoring adds coverage when you can’t respond to alerts. It depends on your budget, travel habits and comfort level.
Will a security system lower my homeowners insurance?
Some insurers offer discounts for monitored systems, but amounts and eligibility vary. Ask your insurance agent what they require and what credit you may receive.
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